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Valentino SS23 Unboxes the Route to Minimalism


In a time when the majority agrees that more is more, Pierpaolo Piccioli chose to focus on the notion of omission. Valentino’s SS23 collection delves into the intentional removal of what exceeds, as the designer best explains. Steering away from loud disturbance and substituting it with subtraction, the collection sheds light on what the designer does best, tailoring and magnificent attention to details. “Real people make things easier. They put the extraordinary in a familiar frame. A similar shift translates the language of couture in the ready-to-wear alphabet,” reads the show notes as well as the collection. From timeless black dresses to smart blazers and coats with feather trims, and pleated dresses and gowns made for divas – the collection lives to its name as it successfully unboxes the tired structures of fashion.

Photos provided by Maison Valentino

Even though minimalism is intended to be the focal point of this collection, it is not realized in the most obvious ways. While the venue, a warehouse reimagined by Piccioli himself and covered in muted black spoke of the designer’s strive for less, the collection – at a first glance – is elaborate and eloquent. Yet, simplicity is seen in the fine details; in the strategic decision to cut at the right length, to reflect the light with the right hue of shimmer and to complement the wearer’s strut with the lightest of pleats. The monogram print on the other hand came to impress and possibly become the next season’s social-media sensation. Matching sets for men, coats, dresses, skirts, tops, accessories and even a model’s face at some point in the show – nothing was spared. The not-so-subtle print is iconic, but also eye catching.

Photos provided by Maison Valentino

Last but not least, the FROW did not disappoint either. A brand loved by many global celebrities, Valentino’s slew of admirers was led by the dazzling Naomi Campbell and the smashing Zendaya, who also happens to be the face of the Maison.